White Criollo cacao: the gem of Piura

Gepubliceerd op: 13/06/2024

In northern Peru, near the border with Ecuador, lies the city of Piura. That name might not ring a bell right away, but the region is home to a special variety of cacao: white Criollo cacao. What makes Criollo cacao so special? And what does the Piura variety taste like?

Near the northern Peruvian city of Piura lies one of the country’s largest organic white cacao plantations. The farmers here do everything they can to protect its cacao production. That’s why not a single tree on the plantations is touched. In fact, there’s almost no way to even get there.

The Discovery of White Cocoa

Yet, until recently, white cacao was not valued. The cacao pods containing white beans were considered defective and immediately discarded.

That changed when European chocolatiers visited the white cacao plantations. There, they discovered new, delicate, and less bitter aromas and flavors. Slowly but surely, white cacao earned the reputation as the world’s best cacao.

What is white cocoa?

The Piura variety of white cacao is just one of the many types of cacao found worldwide. Although there are an incredible number of different cacao varieties, they can be divided into three main types. Each has its own unique characteristics, flavor profile, and subvarieties.

1. Criollo
   Criollo is the most distinctive cocoa variety. This white-to-light-pink bean is of exceptional quality and has a complex flavor profile. No wonder, then, that it is the favorite of chocolatiers who craft exclusive—especially bean-to-bar—chocolate for connoisseurs. The Piura variety from Peru belongs to this cocoa species, but there are many other subspecies of Criollo. They are grown in Central and South America, the Caribbean islands, and Sri Lanka, among other places.
2. Forastero
   Unlike the Criollo cocoa, the Forastero is a hardy variety. It is not prone to disease, produces a bountiful crop, and is not particularly demanding in terms of soil or climate. The variety is native to the Amazon region, but it is now primarily cultivated in West Africa, Ecuador, and Brazil. The Forastero bean does have a robust cocoa flavor, but unlike the delicate Criollo, you’ll hardly detect any subtle undertones in this bean.
3. Trinitario
   When you cross Forastero and Criollo, you get this third variety. Trinitario grows in Trinidad, Ecuador, Venezuela, and Indonesia, among other places. The variety inherits the fine, delicate flavor of the Criollo and the robustness of the Forastero. Furthermore, it is processed in the same way as its two parent varieties: both for exclusive chocolate and in combination with Forastero beans to give the chocolate a bit more depth of flavor.

Criollo cocoa from Piura

White cacao, also known as Criollo cacao, has four names, depending on where the cacao comes from. All four have different nuances and flavors. For example, the variety from Piura has notes of citrus and fruit with hints of nuts. It is less bitter and less acidic than other white cacaos. It also contains anthocyanins, a water-soluble pigment responsible for the purple color of the beans.

The region’s tropical climate gives the Piura variety its delicate and smooth flavor. Partly because of this, this cacao was featured at the Salon du Chocolat et du Cacao in Paris as one of the world’s 50 best cacao beans.

The raw chocolate phenomenon is part of the raw food movement. But what is it? And is it safe to eat? Read here here.