The Sambirano Valley in Madagascar: a fertile cocoa-growing region
Text by María Salvadora Jiménez (Daarnhouwer & Co), ; illustration by Maren Bruin
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Sambirano Valley in Madagascar

Author: Marc Kluijver

Gepubliceerd op: 12/06/2025

Madagascar, the fourth-largest island in the world, is known not only for its unique flora (baobabs) and fauna (lemurs), but also for vanilla, coffee, and essential oils used in the perfume industry. And, not to be forgotten, for the organic fine-flavor cacao grown in the fertile Sambirano Valley.

Landscape

The Sambirano Valley, in the northwest of the island, takes its name from the river of the same name. During the rainy season, the Sambirano River overflows, enriching the soil with nutrients. As a result, 99 percent of all Madagascar’s cacao is grown in this fertile region. Approximately 33,000 small-scale farmers grow cacao here using an agroforestry system, without the use of synthetic fertilizers or chemicals. This system makes plantations more climate-resilient and promotes biodiversity.

Climate

Madagascar has two seasons: a wet season from November to April and a dry season. This also applies to the climate in the Sambirano Valley, which is humid tropical, interspersed with a dry season. This dry season ensures that cocoa pests and diseases are relatively rare. In addition, a small waterfall during the dry period provides sufficient water for the cocoa trees. Thanks in part to these favorable conditions, Madagascar cocoa can be grown 100% organically.

Harvest

Cocoa is harvested here year-round, with peak periods between May and July and from September through December. Due to climate change, the harvest sometimes extends into February. Larger plantations and cooperatives process their beans in centralized fermentation and drying facilities, while small-scale farmers often do this themselves. Fermentation takes three to six days, followed by a drying process lasting four to eight days.

Plantations in the Sambirano Valley

Cocoa production in Madagascar began in 1904, when French plantation owner Lucien Millot planted cocoa trees alongside coffee bushes. The plantation was later divided into several plantations, of which Millot and Åkesson Organic are the best known. Together with MAVA, the third-largest plantation in the region, these plantations represent the face of Madagascar cocoa. However, 90 percent of production still comes from small-scale farmers. Incidentally, only 1 percent of all cocoa comes from Madagascar.

Flavor Profile

The cocoa varieties from Åkesson Organic and Millot are known for their bright notes of red fruit, subtle hints of dried fruit, and a lovely, citrusy acidity. But the cocoa profiles from Madagascar encompass so much more: notes of tropical yellow fruit, tobacco, spices, honey, and roasted nuts. And so the flavor profiles are just as varied as the island’s stunning natural landscape.

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